Adjustments on this page:
Adjustments in other posts:
written by Anemone (Anne) Harris
In this post, I'll walk you through a few crotch adjustments for the halfmoon 101 JEANS. It's not uncommon to require a few different types of adjustments. Use the links above for help on blending or grading between sizes, adjusting the rise and making adjustments for knock knees or fuller thighs.
If you have a full seat (or the opposite, a flat seat or sway back) you can use this adjustment to add or remove height without impacting the side seams.
Mark a diagonal line from the top corner of your side seam down to the marking for lengthening/shortening the rise.
Cut the pattern as shown leaving a small hinge at the top corner of the side seam.
To add height, spread the pieces apart. To remove height overlap the pieces
Mark a new cut line, blending smoothly to mark the new crotch curve.
If you have a full seat/full thighs (or the opposite, a flat seat/narrow thighs) you can use this adjustment to add or remove from the depth of your “crotch hook”.
Mark a line as shown on your back pattern piece from the center of the crotch hook down to mid-thigh. Cut along this line leaving a small hinge at the inseam.
Pivot the section out to add depth (or overlap to remove depth).
Mark a new cut line blending smoothly to mark the new crotch curve. When adding depth you may be scooping slightly to have a smoothly blended curve.
This adjustment can be used to correct for a ‘camel toe’ (or on the back pattern piece if you’re experiencing the ‘wedgie’ effect). In my case I also found it helpful for removing some bagginess at the crotch during my baste fitting stage.
You can see here the bagginess that I was getting.
I tried changing my crotch hook to add or remove from the front rise but neither seemed to help so I just pinned to remove the excess fabric on my basted together jeans.
I carefully removed and then marked where I had pinned along the front crotch.
I then removed the pins and made a marking with a nice smooth curve where my new stitch line will be.
For help on blending or grading between sizes and adjusting the rise of your jeans, go to this post.
Anemone (Anne) is a lover of all things garment sewing and fabric. She especially loves pattern testing and occasionally going down fitting “rabbit holes”. Nothing is quite as satisfying as understanding the cause and figuring out a solution to an interesting fitting problem! Anne lives in Saskatchewan, Canada with her spouse and their two adorable (and hilarious dogs). You can follow her sewing adventures on her Instagram account @sewanemone.