DAY 2 | POCKETS, WRAP, V-NECK, GATHERS
written by Kate Ng
Welcome to the second out of four blog posts of this VONDEL dress Sew Along.
Now that we have cut the pattern pieces and made our bias binding, it’s time to start constructing the dress. The steps today are relatively straightforward. The most tricky bit is the pockets - make sure you read and follow closely the detailed instructions in your instruction booklet, and check the pictures in this post.
STEP 3: POCKETS
The wrap top + dress VONDEL pattern uses all French seams (no overlocker required!). For each of the 4 pocket pieces, match the two notches on each pocket to the corresponding notches on the front and back bodices, wrong sides together. Sew the pocket to the bodice together with ⅜“ seam allowance (do not go past pocket ends). Press open, trim down seam allowance to ⅛” (see picture on the left). Then flip pocket to other side and sew with ¼“ allowance (see picture on the right). Make a tiny snip where the pocket ends at the top and bottom so it lies flat.
STEP 4: LOWER WRAP
On the straight edge of the lower wrap, fold and press edge in by ¼”, then fold over again by ⅜” to close the raw edge. Top stitch, stopping before the hem curve starts.
Repeat on the other front bodice piece.
STEP 5: V-NECK LINE
Open up one piece of bias so that the raw edges are folded towards the centre. Then lay on top of the bodice (right sides together) as shown and pin. Stitch along the centre of the bias binding (the white dotted line in the picture).
Trim seam allowance just on the bodice to reduce bulk.
Then fold the bias over so that it is entirely on the wrong side of the bodice and hidden from the right side, as demonstrated by where my fingers are in the picture below. Pin from where the bias binding starts at the top of the bodice and down to where the bias binding ties finish.
Now flip the bodice over to the wrong side then stitch down the bias all the way to the end of the tie. An edge stitch foot is useful for this, if you have one.
STEP 6: FRONT AND BACK GATHERS
Set your machine stitch length to the longest straight stitch possible (usually 4mm or 5mm). Find the notches on the front and back bodices, then stitch two rows within the ⅝” seam allowance, leaving long tails at the end.
Now the pieces are ready to be put together with the yokes - stay tuned for the next blog post for the next steps.
Kate is a sewist who believes sustainable fashion and sewing should be accessible to everybody. Awareness is key; the more we know, the more conscious we can be about our clothing and fabric choices. Follow her blog Time to Sew for interviews with fashion & sewing change makers, opinion pieces on the going-ons in sustainability, and posts about fabric production. Originally imported from Australia into the UK, Kate now sews and blogs from the Netherlands.
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