DAY 1 | PREPARATION + NECK LINE
written by Jennifer Marques
Hello friends and welcome to the boat neck ANEGADA sew-along! My name is Jenny. For this sew-along, I’ll be showing both views, A + B, so be sure to look for the headings relating to your chosen view.
Before we begin, you’ll need to print and assemble your pattern (hint: use the layers function in Adobe to print only your size(s) based on the size chart on page 5 of the instruction booklet) and test the stretch of your fabric using the guide on page 4.
You’ll also need to gather your supplies: fabric (don’t forget to prewash!), matching thread, (optional) matching woolly nylon bobbin thread for hems, snips, scissors or rotary cutter and mat, (optional) a water or heat soluble fabric marker, steam iron and ironing board or mat, pins, a jersey or stretch needle,(optional) twin-needle, ruler, and a standard sewing machine (serger optional)
Let’s get started!
Step 1: CUT + MARK
Cut out pattern pieces, being mindful of the fold- and grainlines, as well as the stretch. Waist-, arm- and neck bands will need to be cut on the bias for fabric with <50%. These pieces can be cut on the straight grain (horizontal stretch) for fabric with >50% stretch.
Transfer all markings + notches onto the fabric in your preferred manner. (I like to use a heat erasable fabric pen, but small snips work well too.) Assume a 1.5 cm (⅝") seam allowance throughout the pattern, except the lower hem line of the bodice on view B, which is 2.5 cm (1"), as indicated on the pattern.
Step 2: NECK
View A has a raw neck edge that naturally rolls over to the right side. The amount of roll may vary based on your fabric. If you do not have a serger, trim off the 1.5 cm (⅝") seam allowance to reduce bulk at the neck.
If you do have a serger, you may opt to serge the neck edge, with either a standard serge or a 3-thread roll serge. The neck will roll over naturally, so the roll stitch will not typically be visible.
Create the box pleats.
For each of the three pleats, join the two outer lines together, right sides touching, so that the pleat folds at the center line. Press and pin.
On the wrong side, stitch along the 2.5 cm (1”) pleat line at each pleat.
Flatten the pleats out, laying the former center line on the newly stitched line, and press. Baste or stitch in the seam allowance to secure the pleats.
Sew the neck bands on to the front and back bodice.
Fold each neck band in half along the length, as indicated on the pattern piece, wrong sides together. Press. Then fold the neck band in half, bringing the short ends together, and make a small snip in the seam allowance to mark the center point of the neck band.
Keeping the band folded along the length, line up the midpoint of the band with the center pleat or notch on the bodice, right sides together, and pin. Gently stretch the neck band to the far points of the neck curve, so that the fold in the band meets the edge of the bodice. (Note: that last bit is important! If the fold does not meet the edge of the bodice, the neck band will not be captured properly in the seam allowance when creating the shoulder and adding sleeves.)
Sew or serge.
Press seams toward the bodice.
(optional) Using a double needle or stretch-stitch, edge stitch the seam allowance to the bodice, on the right side of the bodice.
That's it for today! Join me on Day 2 for the shoulders and sleeves.
Jennifer Marques resides in Atlanta and shares her sewing journey on her blog, Jenny.Maker. Disheartened first by the struggle to find clothes that fit, then also by the conditions in which many garments are made and the environmental impact they have, she has been sewing much of her wardrobe for the last 8 years. She hopes by sharing her love of sewing, high-quality garments, and natural fabrics, she’ll encourage others to take the first steps toward ethical fashion.
@jenny.maker on Instagram