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Having sewn the halfmoon 101 JEANS pattern multiple times, I've started to realize that combining steps 6 and 8 is quite handy. It doesn’t change the construction at all. But it is a little more efficient with regards to changing threads and needles – especially if you only have one sewing machine! (My guess is that most people indeed have only 1 sewing machine at home😊)
Also, for the purposes of this Sew Along, I think it’s nice to keep the fly construction (step 7) to one post with all the focus.
It’s good to reiterate that I am using denim reclaimed from old jeans. This is why my right pocket facing (6) already has a coin pocket (8). If you are using virgin denim, I’ll let you know when you need to add that (also indicated in the instructions).
Remember that the seam allowances are all 1.5cm (or ⅝”) unless otherwise stated.
Align your pocket facing pieces (6) in the upper corners of the corresponding pocket bags (7) so that the wrong side of the pocket facing is touching the right side of the pocket bag. Laying in front of you, whatever side of the fabric is facing up right now will be on the inside of your pocket when you wear your jeans.
[Note that if you’d rather see the “pretty side” when your jeans are inside out, or when you’re getting (un)dressed, then you’ll want to sew the pocket facing and pocket bag pieces wrong sides together. You’ll need to keep this in mind when following the rest of the directions in Step 6.]
Once you’ve made your pocket prettiness decision, sew the facing (6) onto the bag (7), sewing close to the edge. I like to make sure my seam will be within the seam allowance along the straight edges, and within the stitching of the finished curved edge.
If you’re using virgin denim, now is the time to sew your coin pocket (8) onto your right pocket facing/bag. Match the top corners of the coin pocket to the dot markings and top-stitch either using your twin needle, or by stitching two parallel lines (see p.12 of the instructions for top-stitching tips!).
Now align the curved pocket openings of the pocket piece (6, 7, 8) to its corresponding front leg (1) so that the right sides are together. Pin in place and sew along the curved pocket opening only.
Trim the seams using pinking shears, if you have them. Otherwise, make snips into the remaining/trimmed seam allowance along the curve.
Flip the pocket to the inside/wrong side of the leg and press the seam well. Then put the front legs to the side for a moment.
**Oops! If you're thinking, "but didn't she forget the back pockets?", you are correct! I didn't actually forget them on my jeans (as you'll see in the next image). I just forgot to take a photo specifically of that step.
Be sure to match the upper corners of the back pockets to the dot markings on the back legs. Pin these in place for now, but don't top-stitch or change the thread on your machine just yet.**
We’re going to go rogue and skip to Step 8 for a moment so that we can do a bunch of top-stitching all at once. Grab your back leg (2) and back yoke (3) pieces.
Place the back yoke (3) and back leg (2) right sides together so that the notch on the lower edge of the yoke (3) matches up with the notch on the upper edge of the back leg (2). Place a pin at the notch first, before aligning and placing a pin at either edge. Then ease in and pin the rest of the edge.
Trim the seam allowances of the back leg (2) pieces ONLY, to about 0.5cm (¼”), leaving the seam allowance of the back yokes (3) un-trimmed (this is so you can “flat-fell” the seams).
Press the (trimmed and un-trimmed) seams toward the back leg. Then wrap the un-trimmed seam of the back yoke around the trimmed seam of the back leg. Press again. I also like to flip the jeans and press from the right side to, just to get it nice and crisp.
Pin the folded seams from the right side.
STEPS 6 + 8
Now we’re ready to do the top-stitching from step 6 and step 8 at the same time!
If you’re using top-stitching/contrasting thread and/or a twin needle for top-stitching, go ahead and set your machine up with those things now.
Carefully top-stitch two parallel lines along the front pocket opening, the back yoke-to-leg seam and the back pockets.
(Ahem…clearly it’s time to clean my sewing machine a tad😊)
I like to have nice and tidy seams throughout my garments, so I recommend finishing the front pockets with French seams. To do this, fold your pockets wrong sides together so that the bottom-curving-to-the-side edges are nicely aligned. Pin and sew these at about 0.5cm (¼”) seam allowance.
Use your pinking shears or simply cut little snips into the curved parts of the pocket seams. Then turn your pockets so they are right sides together, press and sew at 1cm (⅜”) seam allowance.
To facilitate putting everything together later on, place a baste stitch at the top and side of each front pocket.
The side seams of your front and back legs are now ready to be finished. You can either do this with your serger (be sure not to trim!) or a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine.
THAT'S ALL FOR TODAY!
Next we'll be going through steps 7A (zipper fly) and 7B (button fly)! I know this part can be intimidating, but YOU CAN DO IT!!
So glad to being sewing the halfmoon 101 JEANS together with you!