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DAY 1 | Stay, Darts, Gather and Pocket DAY 3 | FACINGS, ATTACHING FACINGS TO THE BODICE/DRESS |
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written by Joanne Yusuf
Today we will be constructing our facings of the ballet top + dress DELPY and attaching them to the bodice/dress! The steps for the top and the dress are the same. Again we are working on Version A.
Let’s get started!
Step 12. Using French Seams, sew the front and back facings together, at the sides, under the arms (also both sides for the DRESS). Press the seams to the front.
Please refer back to steps 7 and 8 in Day 2 for construction method of French Seams
Step 13. Finish the bottom of the facing, being sure not to cut off or cross the gather stitch or loose thread tails. Fold the bottom edge up, toward the wrong side, by 0.5cm (¼”) and press. Then fold up again by 1cm (⅜”). Press, pin and edge-stitch.
Step 14. With the bodice/dress right side out and the facings wrong side out, place the facing wrong side out, place the facing around the bodice ( so that right sides are together), matching up the straps, darts and markings. Pin around the neck, back and under the arms.
IMPORTANT: Tie a knot at the top of the gather stitch on both the facing and the bodice, and do not sew across the gather stitch.
Step 15. Sew around the neck, back and underarms with a straight stitch, leaving the last 5cm (2”) of each strap open. Trim the seam allowances around the neck, back and underarms to about 0.5 cm (¼”).
To avoid ripples, clip into the seam allowance (including through the stay-stitch, if this was not trimmed off) at the curved bits, being sure not to clip the seam.
Step 16. Turn your garment right side out and press the seam allowance and facing away from the bodice/dress. Under-stitich around the neck, back and underarms on the right side of the facing, as far as possible, between the straps.
Note: You will not be able to under-stitch along the entire seam. Don’t worry about this!
That is all for today! We are so close to completing our garment. Next we will have steps to finish the shoulders using an all in one facing technique,and finishing gathers on the front of the bodice/ dress.
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Joanne Yusuf lives in the Pacific Northwest, she is a self taught sewist and sewing blogger. Joanne is committed to sewing a sustainable wardrobe using second hand and eco friendly textiles whenever possible. She hopes to inspire others to practice simplicity and mindfulness through the art of creating. @joanna_essentials on Instagram |